Via Francigena sud – Stage 34 – Mola di Bari to Monopoli, part 1 to Polignano a Mare; part 2 to Monopoli.

So glad we did not try to do this all in one day as there would have been tears, and so many words spoken in anger, in English and Italian; plus no time to appreciate the many delights of this long, predominantly coastal section.

Part 1 –

19km, 5.25 hours.

13deg, largely clear skies, until some rain in the evening.

Highlights – Coastal views, and the old town of Polignano a mare. A beautiful day.

We head out of Mola di Bari past the piazza, the remains of the castle, and the harbour.

The route then cuts inland, passing under the freeway to return us to the colourful fields of vines, olives, and vegetables – lettuce, parsley, cabbages, and artichokes. It is easy walking.

Back over the freeway and returning to the coast where we had hoped to find something open for a light lunch. Nothing is open – two local older men having a sit in the sun and a chat by the sea tell me that there are no bars, no restaurants open until Polignano a Mare. They are only open in this area in the summer.

The path follows a long stretch adjacent to the coast, with largely easy walking on paths, but with plenty of places to explore. In the parklands behind the beach there are many trulli ruins; though we stick to the beach, we do see a group of people emerge from the area of the ruins.

After a short section on a secondary road beside the freeway, we return to the sea

Past some coves and we arrive at the centre of Polignano a Mare, in the warmer months a hive of activity, but this afternoon, far more quiet, though predominantly with people who are dressed far, far better than we are.

Past the statue for the famous song, over the bridge and into the old town for our accommodation for tonight. We take in the views of the old town and the lookouts as the sun sets.

You know some of the words: Volare, oh oh, Cantare oh oh oh oh

There are some Christmas decorations around, and a small market in the square, but the streets empty when the rain arrives for the evening.

Eat – Osteria dei Mulini, just near the entrance arch to the old town

Stay – La Naca sul Porto, lovely room, rooftop terrace, fantastic breakfast.

Part 2

10 kms, 4.25 hours

11 deg, clear and sunny blue skies.

Highlights – more amazing coastal views, the thousands of birds, and the old castle and port of Monopoli. Another beautiful day, though more challenging than we thought it would be.

Just a short section today we thought; should be easy walking today we thought. However, two hours in, we found ourselves having covered only 4.5kms.

Admittedly, a large part of this route we were very distracted by the rocks, including looking for fossils, the views, and in particular the hundreds of flocking birds. The terrain, though, is not as easy as the preceding day along the coastal sections – the path is at times rough, and rocky, and we need to pick our way along the route. Added to the challenge are the multiple coves that you need to descend into and come out of – some are very easy, with clearly established steps, while others have little visible path with some rock scrambling involved, or steep rock steps. More than once it was hands to pull up, as well as legs to push, to get up the path.

The first cove in particular is a challenge. We leave Polignano a Mare by the scenic promenade, soon arriving at a fence in our way – you cross this with a stile. We follow what we think is the path through the grass and rocks, but find ourselves on the other side having to scramble up loose rocks, amongst the weeds and prickles – and I hate rock scrambling. Maybe we chose the wrong path through the grass; maybe there was an easier route out, but we could not see it.

As we emerge from this cove, flying just overhead is a large flock of birds, maybe starlings, silently massing overhead then moving on. At this stage, I am trying to calm myself and don’t really appreciate them (as I said, I hate rock scrambling). In two other locations we can see the hundreds, or maybe, thousands, of birds, making formations, flying en masse this way, then that way.

At times the path is easy walking adjacent to the fields; other times it amongst the rocks, and rock pools.

After getting through all the coves, we arrive at the outskirts of the town, first following the bike path (I am taking a guess – past the sewerage works?) then making our way to the old town centre.

Check-in, eat, and a wander around the old town of Monopoli at sunset.