Via Francigena Oct / Nov 2017. Day 37: Bolsena to Montefiascone.

It is a sun shining mid-teens day.

Montefiascone is towards the more southern end of the lake, but much higher up. We decide to cut a few kms and some ups and downs off the days walking. It does mean more time on busier roads though. We turn 18 kms into a little over 14. We get into Montefiascone in the early arvo.

To avoid a large up and down, and threats of sheep dogs, we initially follow the via Cassia out of town for a few kms. We have to be alert to the traffic. I suspect this is the old route, now switched to hillside climbs and descents with less traffic and with likely better views.

When we rejoin the route we pass through beautiful forest in a reserve, with a creek with occasional cascades. Views towards the lake and lots more olive trees and vines follow after we leave the forest.

We pass a sign reporting Montefiascone is 100 kms from Roma – but i think that is the road distance. Pretty sure we have further to walk.

Another sign indicates an alternate route to the ups and downs of the current trail. It is shorter and more direct with a gentle climb towards the town. Again I think it is probably the former trail. It follows a road with reasonably regular traffic. There is a good shoulder and we comfortably keep out of the way of cars, usually going pretty fast, and not infrequently with the driver on the phone.

The route into the centre is a bit round-about as it takes you past the San Flaviano Romanesque church. Unfortunately we didn’t have a euro handy to switch on the lights to be able to better appreciate the carvings and frescoes. It is also the burial place of Giovanni Fugger, a pilgrim of old who reportedly died as a result of the outstanding wine of the town.

We have time for a bit of a rest then a wander, visiting the duomo (love the della Robbia) and the gardens of the fortress. Today is Monday and the fortress is closed but there is a lovely sunset view across the lake.

Then time to sit in a bar and play canasta. Richo wins again.

Stay: Hotel Urbano V

Dinner of lentil soup; plus steak and mushrooms for DC and baccalà ravioli for Richo, plus some of that wine (Est Est Est).

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