A trail of two halves.
One of the most amazing things about doing this walk is the places we have visited, even if just briefly, that we never would have come across on the Italian Tourist trails via the train. Places such as the Val d’Aosta, Pavia, Pontremoli, Radicofani and now, Bolsena.
When we leave Acquapendente it doesn’t take long to reach the countryside. This first 11 kms is mostly weaving through farmland. Flat, easy walking.
Once we cross the centre of the town of San Lorenzo Nuova, the highest point of today, we can see Lake Bolsena. We pick up a couple of tasty pizza slices and sit at a lookout for our lunch.
From here the trail is substantially different as it skirts the hills surrounding the lake. Initially through some woods returning to rough track for the first time in a while. Pink/ mauve cyclamen are everywhere. But we aren’t in Tuscany any more, Toto. The markers are not frequent and trails go off in many directions. We use the SloWays app to keep us on trail.
Most of the rest of the way towards Bolsena we follow dirt road, repeatedly up and down, amongst olive trees, farms and a number of very appealing agriturismi. Olive harvest is complete and people are packing up the nets and pruning the trees.
I had no idea what was at Bolsena, apart from the lake. It is quite a surprise when we get our first glimpses.
An extraordinary medieval town with a large fortress. Once we reach the narrow streets and steep alleyways we need to descend towards the lake. Some young, teenage people virtually run down the steep paths. We creak our way down with added vocal sound effects.
Tonight I have a hotel booked by the lakefront. Enormous, beautiful, century old plane trees line the avenue from the medieval section down towards the lake. They were planted to encourage people from the town to venture to the lakeside. They certainly encourage me to follow them.
We go looking for gelati by the lakeside but it seems gelati mustn’t be a big seller in the cold weather, in off season. It is also a bit challenging to find a place for dinner but eventually we succeed back in the old town.
Stay: Hotel Royal
Eat: Salmon for Richo, risotto with seafood for DC.
A domani.
Richo and DC 