Via Francigena Oct / Nov 2017. Day 33: Torrenieri through San Quirico d’Orcia to Castiglione d’Orcia.

Sun and blue skies have returned. Still cold though.

Around 18 kms today. Stepz also says more than 100 flights of stairs climbed. I feel that today that is a fairer reflection of the number of hills climbed.

First climb comes shortly after leaving Torrenieri, but a steeper, longer climb takes us up to the hill town of San Quirico d’Orcia. It has taken us about 2 hours to reach this town and we are glad we are doing this part with blue skies rather than in the cold, the wind and the dark.

Further climbing, all on easy roads, takes us up towards the outrageously scenic, tiny hilltop fortress of Vignoni. I am sure i saw places for rent. We can see our home for the night across the valley. Another hilltop former fortress.

But first the steep descent down the valley to the thermal baths of Bagno Vignoni, where we run into pellegrini americana and canadese.

Lunch and then over the river on the lovely new bridge, then the next climb.

Over to our left, amongst more gentle hills, the fields are all waiting for the wheat. The area actually reminds us of the scenery if you took a drive up the Calder, into the great dividing range, back in the drought. Well….. if you ignored the hilltop villages, the towers and castles and instead stuck in some gum trees and a lot of large granite boulders.

The Via doesn’t officially go all the way into the town of Castiglione d’Orcia, but does climb to the edge. From there, it is the steepest climb up to the town, up past the olive trees towards the tower.

I have a B&B booked but when we arrive at the rabbit warren of streets in this ancient town, we don’t know where to go. A quick phone call and we find our way – which of course involves more up.

It’s a beautiful spot with views from the window of our room out to the tower. They have a lovely garden but this isn’t the time of year to fully appreciate it.

We have time for a good wander around the old town and the castle ruins before sunset. The tower is currently closed, reopening in December, so we don’t have the chance to check out the view from the top. We settle for a sunset view from the steps to the gate. Totally worth all that climbing.