Richo and DC

The view of San Gimignano out along the road of our hotel is impressive.

I think we cover 22 kms. It is a day with a lot of ups and downs including some good ‘mule tracks’. We spend much of the day in forest, with the last few kms amongst farmland.

A couple of creek crossings are easy to negotiate.

We feel good today and in hindsight probably could have made it all the way to Monteriggioni though it would have been close to dark on arrival. And i might not have appreciated the steep final climb at the end of the day.

We get a view of its crown of towers as we approach Strove, our home for the night.

Our last couple of kms towards the town we are accompanied by a couple of residents. They say my Italian is good – I think that is being a bit generous but it is good to practice. We stay at a lovely hotel and enjoy an excellent three course meal. Strove is a very small picturesque Tuscan town and we wander before dinner and check out another gorgeous Tuscan sunset.

Our shorter day today means a longer one tomorrow. 6.5 kms to Monteriggioni followed by 20 to Siena.

We still have company at times from pellegrino francese and pellegrino danese. Although today it was only a glimpse of pellegrino francese – he is younger, taller and faster. A glimpse and a wave in the distance and he is not seen again for the day.

We await more Tuscan delights tomorrow.

A domani.

Today we reached a number of milestones!!

As per the guide data: Aosta to Rome is 978 kms.

At the end of today we have completed 656kms, or 2/3 of the way.

We have caught public transport for 135 kms; and a taxi for 19 kms.

So we have now completed 502 kms of via Francigena on foot – as per the guide distances. An average of 18 kms per walking day.

322 kms still to go.

As per Stepz, since starting on the walk:

Today we passed 1,000,000 steps.

And we have walked 664 kms including all days since we started walking (i.e. Sightseeing days as well).

This day also takes us back to the point of discovery of the via Francigena. On January 7th 2014 we completed a day walk from Certaldo to San Gimignano. We came across this sign indicating a turn off from the road. On that day we followed the same route from here. While waiting for the bus to leave San Gimignano i read the information board, and, as they say, the rest is history.

The day starts cloudy but it is high and we have our destination in sight from the very start – we can see the towers of San Gimignano from the breakfast room of the B&B. It starts cool and probably gets to a maximum of 11-12 deg which is all good for walking. San Gimignano is only 13.5 kms away. As the following stage to Monteriggioni is very long (31 kms) we decide to make a start into that, finishing 2 kms past San Gimignano tonight.

There are a few ups and downs in those kms but the day is on sealed or unsealed road. Although we lose sight for a time of our destination there are rolling hills, olive trees and grape vines and hills of forest in autumn colours. The last few kms are on the road into town – ok to walk: Not super busy and good shoulder.

We arrive early afternoon and soon find gelati. We visit the duomo with its amazing frescoes.

There’s no restaurant near our hotel for the night so we grab some supplies for picnic dinner and wander out. The light has been dull today and it seems to be getting quite dark soon after 4 pm.

During our wandering of the streets we seem to attract quite a bit of attention. Must be my fine pellegrina style.

We have a very comfy spot for the night and eat our tuna panini and fruit plus red wine.

Still 322 kms to go.

I don’t know how to adequately describe today. We have now arrived in picture postcard Tuscany. Good thing there were no flies about as I would have finished up with a belly full.

The early views from the convent and town are very promising. 24 kms through the hills of Tuscany. However once we drop down from the town we then spend the next 2 and a quarter hours walking ridge roads with the ‘splendid panorama’ totally engulfed in clouds.

Pellegrini numbers have doubled today – 8 people.

On the good side, with good tracks you cover ground quickly when there is no need to stop and check out scenery and take pics.

But then…

What common images of Tuscany are used to appeal to travellers?

Rolling hills with patchwork fields of green or turned soil?

Hilltop towns, farmhouses and ruins ?

Picnic lunch of bread, salame, cheese and mandarins under old gnarly olive trees?

Golden and crimson autumn vines?

Lines of pencil pines?

The pictures are not likely to fully relay how amazing the scenery was today. By the time i go through them again at home i will hopefully have forgotten how tiring and painful the last couple of uphill kms seemed. The last few kms are along the road; thankfully with a barrier to keep us separated from the frequent fast cars and the trucks.

But made it to the B&B with fabulous shower and very comfy bed (shame about the steps to get inside). There have been a few crappy beds over the weeks but this is fantastic.

Lasagna, tagliatelle with funghi, and fried artichokes for dinner.

Tomorrow to San Gimignano! Only 13.5 kms away. We can see it from the balcony.

Arrivederci.

A long day of 29 kms, finishing with a steep climb up to San Miniato.

Last night we saw on the telly some footage of the wild weather that had struck Italy as we battened down in Pisa and Lucca. Flooding, snow, and hail so big it would turn a car salesman into a blubbering mess.

The morning started off looking very grey still, though there was a glimpse of blue sky to the south – our direction. Richo suited up in rain pants and jacket plus pack cover on. DC went for the approach: it won’t rain if I don’t put all that on! For two hours that strategy appeared to work. He then put on his rain gear, commenting that the rain will of course now stop – that also worked.

This is a day mostly off roads after leaving Altopascio. Tracks are all good though there is some mud about.

Mostly we walk through forest, including on stretches of medieval road. We see a lot of horses today, Cross an ancient Medici bridge and follow tracks through farms and by canals.

The final approach to San Miniato has great views, but it hurts.

On arrival the clouds have cleared and we get a glimpse of the horizon and snow covered mountains to the north.

Stay at the convent, including having dinner there. It’s someone’s birthday so there is extra cake going around.

Today we have met two other pellegrini. A rarity. One French, one from Denmark.

Ci vediamo.

This was never going to be a scenic day. It is a flat section almost entirely on roads through industrial areas and suburban landscape. 18.5 kms.

Includes some busy roads with footpaths and a nasty short spot without path but with trucks to and from the main road. A couple of crossings on this main road. At these crossing points there are zebra crossings for pedestrians, but these in no way suggest to a driver that they should slow and stop for you to cross, except to avoid hitting you. You have to pick your moment to step out onto the road in front of the vehicles and hope for the best.

We did visit a small museum today a few kms out of Lucca receiving a tour of the Roman and Etruscan relics. Bonus of a stamp for our credentials and availability of a toilet to use. Thanks for the guide’s efforts in English – some interesting information and a half hour break from walking the bitumen.

Got a great stamp in Altopascio.

Tomorrow more rain then hopefully fines up. It is from tomorrow that we reach those Tuscan landscapes that are so famous. The walk continues going from picturesque hill town to picturesque hill town, including some very famous places, such as San Gimignano and Siena. It is a far more popular section of the VF. Maybe we will see some other pellegrini. Tomorrow the target is San Miniato, home of the white truffle. We are a few days ahead of the three week festival in honour.

Buonasera.

I had hoped for a big day in Lucca when planning this trip but things have gotten in the way a bit. Today is the last day of Lucca comics, so able to find some really lovely accommodation at a B&B on budget. However rain, lightning, thunderstorms, and possibly hail are all predicted for today. As we leave our hotel in Pisa to head to the station there is heavy rain, thunder and lightning. The umbrella sellers are out in force.

The rain is present much of the day, though often light. We get a few hours of sightseeing in.

The streets of Lucca are teeming with Comics visitors, many having dressed up for the occasion. There are wizards and witches and lots of Hogwarts students. Masks and unicorn horns, cats ears and face painting. Voldemort and Game Thrones. ‘Gene Simmons’. Swords and capes, wigs and platform shoes.

We visit a palazzo, famous for its garden, and today a gathering spot for all the cos-play photography.

Tomorrow we will return to walking though it will be in the rain. On the good side, when wearing my rain jacket and pants and using the umbrella my pack weighs less.

Pasta for lunch and pasta for dinner. Carb loading for some long days ahead. Still more than 400 kms to go. And recently we have had more rest days than walking days. Need to get a move on.

Ciao.

I had seen the advertising in the streets and at train stations but paid no real attention to dates. This is Lucca comics and games – the biggest European festival of comics, games, animation etc and it is on in Lucca yearly, and it is on now.

So, a problem. Today we are meant to head to Lucca via a long walk through the hills. But, unless i want to spend something nearing a month’s mortgage on a one night stay, no beds to be found in Lucca.

Review of plan. Train from Pietrasanta goes through to Pisa, and though no bargains to be had (it is less than 30 mins on the train from Lucca) a bed can be found without breaking the bank. So, no long walk. Pisa it is. Admittedly the length of the walk including long sections on road that would be busier on the weekend wasn’t super appealing.

I love Pisa. I love the tower and the whole Piazza dei Miracoli. The cathedral is extraordinary. Previously I have been to Italy three times and I have been to Pisa three times. The last time was almost four years ago, when during a prolonged stay in Florence we did a day trip, on our 20th anniversary. We went up the tower, which is fabulous, giving an amazing view of the cathedral. A very memorable day.

This time, a quick trip on the train, drop our bags at the hotel, and on our way for more sightseeing.

Wandered the streets, visited the botanic gardens, and finally the tower. We didn’t go up this time and the crowds were a lot bigger than the previous visits (all in winter)……..

…but it was still great.

Buonanotte.

It rained quite a lot overnight and the clouds threaten more in the day ahead. The guide talks about the route ahead being on roads today, using statements about blind corners…. no footpath or shoulder……dangerous…… take care…… these words sound even less appealing when applied to wet roads. We decide to stick to the coast before heading inland to Pietrasanta on bike path. A much shorter day of about 17 kms.

How do you know that you are now near Carrara and all the marble that comes from there? Coz there is marble everywhere. There are statues and monuments of course, but the kerbs…..marble. The decorative plant holders….. marble. The bench seats in the square where we eat our lunch…..marble. The breakwaters, at times the paving, the stones in the pot plants, the boundaries around the trees in the footpath, the train station……..

Our route (off VF) today follows the main beach road but access to the beach is limited. The road is lined by restaurants and private beach clubs with occasional beach access and views available.

It is easy walking along the wide footpath. When the rain looks like it might hang around for a while, we settle into a bar for a spell. We see lots of MAMLs out on their bikes, walk past parks, mansions and gardens and admire some of the trees along the route.

Pietrasanta is an artists town. The streets are filled with sculptures. There is a really nice central pedestrian zone with a lovely piazza. After wandering around we settle into a cafe in the piazza for some canasta while a busker plays his violin, including the theme from ‘Cinema Paradiso’ – perfetto. DC almost pulls off a win to even the tally, but makes a hasty move and Richo comes from behind in an unexpected victory.

Tally: Richo 3, DC 1.

We go in search of dinner at 7.15. It is hard to find anything serving before 8ish.

At one place he asks: pellegrini? I wonder what gave us away. Our fashionable clean clothes, our boots, our smell? My gorgeous hair that hasn’t seen conditioner in weeks and is now frizzed by the rain? Our desperate, weary, hungry looks?

Eventually we find something open at 7.30. Excellent funghi risotto for DC and ravioli with ragu for Richo.

Ciao ciao.

Quick trip on the train and back in Sarzana. We have a quick look around the main street and piazzas of the old town and second breakfast at a cafe. Wander into the Basilica and manage to get stamps for our credentials. Past the fort (not yet open) then on our way.

Today is mostly easy walking along generally quiet streets through suburban areas. Nice houses and gardens to be seen; olive groves and vines. Quite a few vegie gardens to check out.

There are views to hillside villages and castles and occasional glimpses of the jagged peaks of the Apuan mountains.

We visit some Roman ruins at Luni and then break from the VF path to head towards the beach.

We easily reach the coast but then have a long slog to reach our hotel for the night in Marina di Massa. Rain is threatening and the sun now sets at 5pm with daylight savings finishing on the weekend. We make it just in time to beat both.

About 27-28kms.

Out into the rain to source dinner a few hours later – excellent salad with bocconcini followed by fantastic pizza. One of the challenges after a long day of walking is the mis-match between when my belly wants dinner and when dinner is served. Usually hard to find anything before 7.30 pm.

A domani.

Our apartment is in Corniglia, the middle town, up on a cliff. We have a balcony and terrace garden to relax in (the yellow building to the left).

On the first day we mostly relax. For the first day in weeks we walk under 10 kms; only about 5. Just hang out, eat and wander the area of Corniglia. The knees are still sore.

Spend most of the arvo just relaxing, reading and cards.

Canasta tally to date : Richo 2; DC 1.

On the second day we follow the track to Vernazza and catch the train to other villages; just a bit of wandering and checking out views. The easier, flatter paths are closed; awaiting repairs still from landslides.  And as we walk towards Vernazza, you can see the areas of terracing that also await repairs – they are marked and numbered.  DC is not so impressed by the up and down of the path; the knees are still sore.

We spend time people watching, and laugh with bemusement at those carrying their dogs up and down the almost 400 steps towards the train station – do those dogs look embarrassed?

The girl spending most of her time on the beach taking selfies, the big smile fades in between pictures (hair up, hair down, hair back or partly over face; sunglasses on/ off/ top of head; left side / right side; on the sand, in the water; standing, sitting; in embrace with boyfriend/ no boyfriend; water background/ town background and on and on …….)

Watched through the window of a kitchen while gnocchi is made.

The paragliding down towards the beach.

The weather is mild, the water an amazing colour and the cliffs and the terraces fascinating.  Vernazza is beautiful, plus it is lovely to dip the feet into the water for a while at Monterosso al Mare.

After an excellent late lunch, gelati ended up being dinner again.

Back to it tomorrow.