Author: richodcblog

Winter is coming!

Our longest day yet, at close to 30 kms, even though we caught the bus a few kms through the suburbs of Pavia to start the journey.

And it was a cool start to the day. Layers on and beanie in use. And fog again.

Back when we were in the mountains, I don’t remember specifically who, but a man was telling me about the air down on the plain. It was in Italian and so I didn’t understand everything but the gist was that the air is bad on the plain.

The guide book talks about the views to the Alps in the north, including Monte Rosa, the second highest mountain in the Alps. However, even on the clearer, warmer cloud free days when we first arrived on the plain, we saw no sign of the Alps, just a haze. Now, when the fog lifts, there is increasing haze.

Although there were nice sections of the walk today, especially once back in the farming areas later in the day, it was a long, dusty, smoggy day, mostly walking on roads. Long kms on bitumen is hard on the legs.

Arrived at our accommodation at dusk, sore and tired.

Stay: Casa Candi (another 800 ms or so once arrive in the centre of town).  Bought some supplies from the nearby supermercato, cooked our dinner and crashed.

A shorter day tomorrow.

Buonasera.

 

 

We enjoyed our two days doing some sightseeing stuff in this University town. Rested. Played canasta – Richo 1; DC 0.

Ate lots of good food, including excellent gelati. Wandered through the old central area and caught the train out to Certosa di Pavia.

I love a good cloister as much as a good bridge. And this one, with vegie garden, is fabulous. (Those priests must eat a lot of chillies).

Long day tomorrow

Buona notte.

An early start again and fog. But at least no gun shots today.

The fog was quite thick for the first couple of hours; sometimes barely able to see 50m’s. Difficult at times to find markers as we walked the paths through fields.  We stopped at Gropello Cairoli for morning tea, and when we emerged from the cafe at 10.30,  the fog was gone.

A lot more trees today, so the 24 kms was a bit easier. For the first half ongoing fields and farms, and then we reached the river. The last 10 kms is through bush with river views on occassions.  At times the bush areas are pretty nice, but also frequently overgrown with blackberries.

There was a long stretch today on road before coming to the river. So far we have covered a lot of distance walking on roads though usually it is reasonably quiet. Today we had a section with a bit more frequent traffic. Previously, people mostly slow down and go wide when we are on the road, but not so much on this section. I usually try to get well out of the way off to the side, but as the road was up on a levee there was nowhere to step off to the side.

When on the road you try to make eye contact with drivers, and I have seen so many people on their phones. That is no doubt just the same at home, but scarier when your pathway is the road.

Tired, we arrived at Pavia. Pleased we are here for two reasons: it has a great bridge, and it is a designated rest stop. Have booked into a B&B for three nights, so will spend some time doing some tourist things and resting up.

Stay: Residenza I Mille; lovely stay with a chance to do some laundry and rest up in the shady courtyard.

Eat: Pizzeria Royale;

Ciao.

Set the alarm. Got up and out the door at 8, into the the fog and frost.

About 21 kms today, again through fields and farms, and along canals, but as it is Sunday,  the ringing of church bells resounds across the countryside. But Sunday isn’t just for God it seems, it is also for shooting. Most of the day was also accompanied by the sound of rifles. I don’t know if it is duck season but sure hope it isn’t pellegrina season.

We arrive at the town of Tromello just before midday.  Prior to the bells ringing in 12 o’clock, the streets are virtually deserted, then suddenly people appear from everywhere.  We find a good place for lunch in the town square.

An interesting thing we note as we walk across these flat lands and through the small towns are the cyclists – overwhelmingly, the main people on bikes are older women.  Nonnas.  Just going about their business on bikes.  Not a sight you see much in urban Melbourne.

Stay: Hotel Il Pino, directly on the route into Garlasco.

Eat: Pizzeria Il Boss

A domani.

Well we slept in. Didn’t wake until well after sunrise. By the time we left and made our way through the suburbs and the centre of town, got out the other side and finally into the countryside, it was almost 11. And the temperature was getting warm.

Although in general there were more trees around today, they provided only rare moments of shade. The path was again through fields but this time up on a levee where you remain exposed to the sun. A reststop, for our lunch, under the autostrada the only respite.  By the time we reached the first town, Palestro, having completed only 14 of the planned 20 km day, we were done.

Lesson for the day: set your bloody alarm and get going about 2-3 hours earlier.

So we caught the train, passing the 6 kms, and the 15 of the next stage in no time at all, i.e after the train finally came 30 mins late.

Arrived in Mortara where we had our first gelati of the trip – how did that take us so long. Probably have been too tired to go in search.

Stay and Dinner: Albergo San Michele

Dinner at the hotel was fantastic. Risotto (we have been walking past rice fields for days). For me – with mushrooms; for DC with goose and “beans with eyes”. With side dishes of fennel with parmigiano, and mixed salad. Followed by dessert (yep – gelati and dessert in one day). Best meal of the trip so far.

Buonanotte.

Our longest day yet but easy walking across the flat plains.

Walking 25 kms of mostly farms maybe doesn’t sound fascinating, but the changing colours in the fields, the sun shining on the green and gold of the rice plants, the birds, the occasional farmhouses and ruins, the tractors working on the farms all provided interest. (And at this time of year, none of the dreaded mosquitos were about!).  We found a shady spot under a tree (not too many of them today) to sit and eat our picnic lunch, and looked north towards where the Alps are – but couldn’t see any sign of them.

We both felt strong today and completed the day comfortably despite the heat and rare moments of shade.

As we stayed on the outskirts of Vercelli, we were a little short of the 27 km day, just adding a bit more to tomorrow. Almost 7.5 hours in total. Unfortunately being on the outskirts meant we didn’t get the chance to wander the old center of town. We did however have a bath with our room, so we soaked our dusty, sore bodies instead.

A shorter day tomorrow. Can’t locate accommodation in the next stop, so will skip a section and catch the train part way.

Stay and Dinner: Vercelli Palace Hotel

Once we walked up from the lake to rejoin the path it brought the day to about 18 kms.

And the weather- mid 20s and sunny til further notice.

After the initial climb for a few kms it is then a nice, slow downhill all the way to Santhia.  We have definitely left the mountains behind now; it is easy walking through a very different landscape.  We walk mostly through fields of corn or rice as the path winds its way across farmland.  As we make our way out of Viverone I note the posters up about boar hunting.

I spend some time thinking about: what would be a worse way to die – a tiger snake or a boar? I have noticed how much more relaxing it is to walk and not have to be looking out for snakes, like in warmer weather at home.

The highlight (!) of the day comes at lunchtime. Sitting at a corner of a field under a shady tree. DC says: What is that? We have a good look across the fields to see a big wild boar bolting across the field about 300 ms away. Followed by two dogs, and a bit further back, a person. This boar could move. Thankfully the next words were not: And it’s coming right for us!

The boar bolted across the fields and into some woods with barking dogs in hot pursuit.

With lunch finished we waited until the sound of the barking dogs was long gone, then followed our path past the same fields and into the woods. Pretty much crapping ourselves at every noise, we moved along fast. I will no doubt be mulling over my question for today for a while yet.

Today we ran into our first pelligrina, heading to Rome. She started in her home country of Belgium, and has already been walking for more than two months. Across France, into Switzerland and now through Italy. We ate dinner together, along with a young Italian man walking only a few days along the trail for now. We had the Pilgrim’s menu – rice and beans followed by various meat items from the head of the pig. I enjoyed the rice and beans, and the green beans i ordered as the side dish, and the chocolate tart for dessert.

 

Stay and dinner: Hotel Ristorante Vittoria.

Arrivederci.

Although there is a bit of up and then down as we approach lake Viverone, this is a mostly flat day. The grapes are again present once near Viverone, but before that we see the start of the fields of corn.

We pass a lake and walk on mostly quiet roads in villages and paths in the countryside. We pass church ruins and large homes and gardens.

 

On arrival in Viverone we find the food and services are down closer to the lake so decide to stay down there rather than up in the old town.    We have covered 20 kms or so. And in the evening we spend some time wandering by the lake.

Ciao.

Caught the bus back to where we finished walking yesterday, at Borgo Franco d’Ivrea. The weather remains perfect.  Followed the path up through the hills towards the castle Montalto Dora.  The VF signs direct you around lake Pistono, even though the guide reports this is an alternative route.  This is fine for us today – not like we have far to go.   We enjoy a leisurely pace, without packs, around the lake then back towards Ivrea.

Once back in Ivrea we wander the streets, past the castle, the Duomo, the river, and the pedestrian centre with Piazzas.  About 9 kms.

A snoozy, relaxed afternoon.

Eat:  Caffe bistrot del teatro.

First, an excellent spread for breakfast, including eggs cooked to order.  Back across the Roman bridge, and out of the town.  After a steep, rocky climb early on (which was fine coz it was early and we were energised by our fabulous breakfast) we arrived at the panoramic outlook of the church of San Rocco.

Today was a day dominated by pathways through villages and grape vines.  We could see at one high point how we were leaving behind the mountains, with just a few more hills to go, and then the plains visible before us. DC gave the mountains an animated farewell.

We arrived in one village just as the church bells rang out for midday and soon after found a spot under a tree (turned out to be walnut tree! – DC is allergic) for lunch, where we sat and watched a rock climber making his way up a cliff.

In the afternoon, there were more ups and downs and rocky path underfoot as we continued on, following a beautiful pathway between and under grape vines, and later on weaving through large rocks, of course with more castles dotting the landscape.

About 16 kms and 6 hours after setting out, we arrive in Borgo Franco d’Ivrea.  Ivrea is still another 6-7 kms away, but we had had enough and (eventually) boarded a bus for Ivrea.

Two nights booked in a gorgeous apartment in the old centre – ReArduinoIvrea.