Author: richodcblog

The book says this day is easy. Although a quick look at the topographic map suggests otherwise. Today we go up and over the hills at the end of the valley, and briefly into Liguria.

We leave the hotel, after a good buffet breakfast (with our lunch boxes packed), and head out into the fog. We have managed a pretty early start for us and when we stop by the church to see if we can get a stamp it is 8:00 and still an hour before the museum opens.  Kindly, the man lets us in for a quick look around, and a stamp (a good one).   The small museum holds some interesting treasures, plus a replica of an unexploded bomb dropped by the British but unearthed many decades later.

Back into the fog, across the river and immediately into the climb up into the forest.   The track is steep but good.  After maybe 30-40 minutes we emerge, above the fog and soon arrive at a hilltop village, Bibola, with ruins of a castle perched at the very top. Our rest there is accompanied by the sounds of reconstruction and renovations.

Down and across to the next village then climb again. Initially up through terraces of olive trees and then back into the forest. There are some steeper rocky sections here that require some scrambling.  We emerge to a jeep track and find a grassy spot for lunch (sitting amongst the rifle cartridges) near our high point for the day.

The descent is initially easy along the road, then returns to forest path. On this side of the hill the ground is dry as a bone.  First Richo ends up in some bushes. Within 100ms DC goes over as well; and emerges with a few scratches from the blackberries.

Through another village, Ponzano Superiore, where we are briefly tempted by a bus signed for Sarzana, then more descent.

What starts off through farmland and olive trees later becomes a brutal, steeply descending, dry rocky path through pine trees. DC slips and goes down again! With tired legs, painful knees, scratches and after quite a few thoughts about the setup of the final parts of the descent (some switchbacks might have been a better idea!) we reached the bottom. A couple of kms of mostly easy road walking  (a bit of traffic to watch in some spots) and we are in Sarzana.

The centre of town looks really nice but not for exploring today.  3 nights in an apartment in Cinque Terre await.

We head straight to the train station, arriving 7 hours after starting our day.  All up about 20kms, from hotel to train station, with total ascent of 608 ms and descent of 646 ms (as per book).  That easy rating – surely an error.    There were easy parts but altogether a tough day.  Although the views were not crystal clear, they were amazing, and the weather was good. Ancient villages, forest, mountain ranges and first views of the sea.

When we arrive in Corniglia, we are so tired our gelati ends up being dinner.

Falls tally to date: 3 apiece.

Arrivederci.

Today is mostly through woods. 17 kms in total, and generally good paths and jeep tracks. The route includes sections of paving from medieval times.

It starts off cool again as we leave Filetto.  Market stalls are setting up. It is Sunday. A day, as we have previously found, for shooting. Walking today is accompanied by church bells echoing through the hills, and at times, rifle shots. I see two signs highlighting that hunting for wild boar is taking place.  At one point we can see a group of men with their guns and dogs not far away in the woods.  At another point I see a middle-aged man, grey-haired, and with chain saw, emerging from some woods.  I pick my pace up a bit, hoping that it isn’t John Jarrett / Mick Taylor.

Rather than the right turn out of Filetto, we follow the road straight ahead (very quiet) and turn to meet the trail after passing a few streets.  We are soon climbing to reach Virgoletta, where we veer off the trail to go for a wander through this ancient town.

We follow the alternate trail to the Roman ‘castrum’ (military town), but there is nothing there to see at the moment – excavations are planned.

We are, though, very excited to walk over sections of ancient, medieval road.

Overall, we pass through wetter forest than previously and we have to deal with our first mud issues – easily negotiated, mostly. Richo fails to safely negotiate a section of steep downhill, slippy with clay.

Falls count: DC 1, Richo 2. I reckon that is going to be sore tomorrow.

When we arrive in Aulla, it is straight to the hotel and to the dining room. We are hungry. We stand out in the dining room though. It is busy with large family groups, dressed in Sunday best for big family lunches.

Steak and salad for DC, grilled chicken and veggies for Richo. We don’t even venture out of the hotel spending the arvo sleeping (DC) and reading up on days ahead and making plans for our next scheduled rest stop (Richo).  Aulla doesn’t strike us as having a lot to venture out for.  It’s strategic position meant the ancient town was heavily bombed during WW2.  It has been replaced by modernity.

Very nice spag bol for dinner. We need some carb loading; it is a big day tomorrow.

Stay and Eat: Demy Hotel

Buonanotte.

Today we walk through a number of medieval villages and pass farms across the valley floor.  We make one medieval village our home for the night.  About 18kms.

But first, back through the streets of Pontremoli and across the river. It is market day, and it is cold; 6 deg.  Glad I have my lucky grand final beanie!

Then, we have a few kms of busy road to endure. Usually no footpath, and if present very narrow or blocked by parked cars. Fast cars to the left of me; barking, leaping dogs to the right. Maybe it would have been a better idea to catch the train past this, or book the taxi driver to come back.  I really hate this time on the busy roads.

The day does improve substantially though.  Much of the day we have views over to the mountains. And initially can see up towards Monte Valoria – no dark clouds this morning.  We pass through two medieval villages, Ponticello and Filattiera, criss-crossing the valley floor through fields inbetween.

We pass the Pieve di Sorano, and statues.

Then make the steep climb up to Filattiera where we have an excellent lunch of homemade tortellini al ragù in the square.

There is more up and down involved through woods. A couple of easy water crossings, with water. And finally, along an ancient pathway bordered on both sides by stone wall, getting showered by falling leaves and acorns, to arrive at Filetto.

Stay: Gredo, within the old town itself.  Very comfortable stay, with the cafe next door, where, after a wander around the old village, we settle in for some cards.

Dinner Ristorante Pizzeria al Pozzo: DC massive steak with chips and salad; Richo chestnut gnocchi with funghi.

Tonight I have left shoulder pain. My biceps tendon is not happy. This is the first time I have used two sticks and my left shoulder is not used to the amount of work it has had over the past week with all the rocky ups and downs. I can barely reach across the table to steal chips from DC’s plate. Need to give it a rest tomorrow.

Canasta: Richo 2, DC 0.

Ciao.

DC is a bit off again today. Has been coughing much of the night and feeling a bit heavy in the chest.

Another issue: look out the window to the south and there is a big band of dark clouds, just where we are headed.

Today is the day of the highest point for us, both in the Apennines and throughout our walk. Monte Valoria: 1,229 ms.

After heading through the streets of Berceto (852 ms) the walk is mostly through woods on jeep track. It is close to 400 ms of up but generally a gradual climb. The last bit up to the summit is particularly easy.

However, as we have been walking the clouds are darker, and the wind is cold.

If the weather is good this would be a great place to stop for a while and take in the view. At times you can see wild horses on the grasslands here.

But today, there are no horses (they have more sense than us), just a strong, cold wind and dark clouds closing in. We take a quick look around, take a couple of pics, then head on our way. As we walk across the ridge, the wind is blowing us towards the up-hill side, thankfully. Once we drop to the north side of the ridge, back into trees, it is easier. The descent towards the Cisa Pass is gradual, through woods and across grassland, but includes climbing over two stiles.

We soon arrive at Cisa Pass (1055 ms) and into the warm bar. Pellegrina olandese is there too, having arrived about 15 minutes ahead of us. She slept at a great agriturismo last night so we hadn’t seen her for a day.

Excellent lunch of panini plus blueberry cake. Ventured out to see the church and it was even colder.

The next stage from the pass involves a descent to Pontremoli, down in the valley (236 ms). 22 kms on the path or 19 kms via the road, of often steep descent. The initial plan had been to start that likely painful walk and stay somewhere part of the way down, finishing off tomorrow. But with DCs cold, and the weather, and no accommodation available until 12-13 kms down, we had changed our plan. Catch the bus! 2pm. The 10kms to Cisa Pass was enough for DC today. Save our knees some pain.

But the bus didn’t come. The staff at the bar were surprised and offered to call us a taxi. DC didn’t need asking twice.

The clouds were clearing by the time the taxi arrived and the trip down the mountain gave us some glimpses of how amazing the views would be on the walk down.

We arrived in Pontremoli with the sun out and, according to the taxi driver, 20 deg. Staying at a B&B with a room far too nice and clean for all our dirty stuff.

Still had time for some sightseeing, including the castle, excellent museum there, and wandering the narrow streets of the old town and admiring the old bridges.

Gelati, followed by excellent dinner of local specialties.

On arrival back to the B&B hanging on the door knob at the front door – my yellow and black good luck grand final beanie. I must have left it in the taxi. Thank you taxi driver. You don’t know what that means to me.

A dopo.

The sun continues. And while yesterday started off very cool and didn’t get too warm, today feels a lot warmer. We are making this a slow trip through the Apennines – only about 11 kms today. Yesterday, felt strong and the pack felt lighter, and DC must be on the improve as he was ahead all day (though slept a lot of the arvo). Today, it should be a far easier day, but feels harder. We slept in – not on our way till 9.45.

Starts off with easy walking, mainly on the road for first few kms. Minimal traffic and no safety issues. And then into the woods and up. Through villages, farms and more woods until we eventually reach our destination.

All day there are amazing views.

The final approach to Berceto was hard. While climbing over the three stiles with barbed wire left and right, I congratulated myself on making sure my tetanus injection was updated before leaving home. And even though we could see the village below, the track first takes you steeply uphill (DC: “That was totally unnecessary!”) before a steep descent to enter the town next to the castle ruins.

A bit of sightseeing followed by Pizza and calzone for dinner. Unfortunately the gelateria was closed when we left the pizzeria.

Salve.

Today we climbed, in total, about 900 ms but Stepz claims i only climbed the equivalent of 43 flights of stairs!! Ripped off.

The climb is slow and easy to start with. We are soon off the road and onto a track with multiple creek crossings. Thankfully we were carrying more water with us than was actually in the creek. Although the washed out bridge at the last crossing provided clear evidence of what this creek is capable of becoming.

It is then uphill but initially on quiet roads and through a couple of villages.

We hit a jeep track and the gradient increases. When we reach the top, and cross over the ridge we can see behind us the plain (covered in a haze) and hills we are leaving behind. No sign of those Alps today.

And ahead are the mountains and valleys of the next few days.

But what goes up must go down, then up again very steeply and down again, very, very steeply. Finishing off with a lesser climb to arrive at the village of Cassio and our stay at the Ostello.

Much of the latter parts of the trail today are through pine forest – lovely walk in spite of the pain, with fantastic views.

But very, very steep, rocky descents are never my friend and we even out the fall numbers.

DC 1 (back in Val d’Aosta); Richo 1.

Amazing sunset followed by dinner: pasta and bean soup, salad and grilled meat.

Pellegrina olandese is here too. We have separate rooms at the Ostello. Unfortunately for the pellegrina olandese, when we head for dinner at the nearby restaurant, it appears we locked her in. We were wondering why she didn’t turn up for dinner. Thankfully the ostello has a great store of food, including a packed fridge. Sorry pellegrina olandese.

This is an amazing place, home to collections of all sorts of things. DC and I appear to have the kiddies room, and it is very red. So we lay our heads onto our red pillowcases (with cartoon cars) and sleep well.

Buonanotte.

After an excellent breakfast at the B&B, we descend to the valley floor via San Andrea Bagni to Felegara. Starts cool but the sun is shining and it warms up later.

One of the things we noticed 4 years ago on the walk to Santiago de Compostela, was that if you stand in one spot long enough looking confused and/or lost, someone will come along who sends you in the right direction . (This happened 3 or 4 times). When we reach Felegara, we somehow end up on a corner that both maps: the official route and the modified route via the B&B, say we should not be on. The freeway is in front of us and we need to get to the other side. We can see a marker that suggests a different route to our official map. While we contemplate left versus right, a van drives past with two men; they stop momentarily in front of us and indicate to the right. We do as told and are soon past the freeway. Later, when we catch up with Pellegrina olandese, she described ending up at the same spot, confused, and two men in a white van sending her in the right direction.

Once at Fornovo di Taro, we cross the bridge to a town busy with market day.

At any church we are always on the lookout for the ghoulish hell images.

Just like the towns of the day before, this is picturesque and looks like it could compete in a ‘tidy town’ competition. We weave our way through the streets, find a cafe for lunch, then to the big climb of the day.

After the big climb on a quiet roadway (an enormous thanks to whoever put those chairs at the top) comes the steep descent followed by about 4kms along the road; thankfully today all traffic gives us a wide berth.

Stay at a B&B just before Sivizzano, with homemade cookies, a great view and a sunny spot for efficient clothes drying.

A walk into town for dinner safely accomplished along the road with our head torches, and a trip back in the car from the Osteria proprietor.

A day of about 17 kms with some up and down, but the real leg work is still coming.

DC improving but still slower than usual.

Stay: B&B Sulla Strada, directly on the road a little before Sivizzano.

A domani.

When we leave the hotel heading to the train station we cannot believe the clear blue sky overhead. And on the train to Fidenza, we can see the hills to the south, our target for today, and for the first time on the plain, we can see the Alps, all across the northern horizon.

Our 13 minute train trip takes more than 30 minutes, then we are heading through the tree lined streets of Fidenza towards the hills.  Fidenza looks like a nice town, but we don’t get the chance to explore.

We were joined for a while by a resident of Fidenza, himself in training for another of the Italian pilgrimage trails. While walking he gave us some advice about the coming days before continuing on his way.

And we met Pellegrina Olandese, spending 6 days on this part of the trail, having previously spent time walking in Tuscany and beyond.  Today she plans on stopping in Medesano.

This day is such a contrast to recent days. The air is clear and the views are amazing as we walk our 22 km’s through hills, farms and villages. We have morning tea sitting on the sunny patio of the Osteria del Sole, and have our picnic lunch in a field at a highpoint where we take in the views.  Of course, it is back to the ups and downs. Three steep climbs and two steep descents.

We decide to stay up in the hills at a B&B.   No problems crossing the creek beyond the village of Cella (it is dry), then a steep climb up to the ridge.  We then follow the path to the right, rather than the left route heading to Medesano (there is a board and map). The route descends very steeply down through a dairy farm followed by a climb up to the next ridge. One of those winding steep climbs where you keep hoping that the next bend is the last. But it isn’t.

Stepz says: climbed equivalent of 104 flights of stairs today!

Lastly we follow the quiet road around to finish a lovely day at a great B&B.  DC tired but made it ok.

Shortly before dinner I can hear the owner on the phone talking to someone about Pellegrina Olandese.  A family member is dispatched and soon she arrives from Medesano. Unable to find a spot there for the night, a local restaurant called and sorted her out.

Stay: B&B San Nicola.  Dinner provided for additional cost.

Arrivederci.

It was going to be an early start today to get to the river for 9.00am pick up by the boat.  Unfortunately today when DC wakes, the cold he feels has been looming has taken hold. No chance of walking 18kms today.  He goes back to bed for a bit more sleep and with the help of  Federico I cancel our boat trip up the river.

So revision of our plans.

We had already decided to miss the next two stages of the trail: the last 54 kms of path across the plain. Had enough of the plain. The dusty, smoggy plain needs some rain.

So. To the map and Booking.com – Parma looks nice! The home of parmigiana, Parma ham. Onto the train and in Parma by lunchtime. 2 nights at a hotel for a chance to recover. Lots of tasty food. And some sightseeing.

But the fog / smog continues. This morning chatting to Federico, the owner of the lovely B&B we stayed at, he reported no rain since April. They are seeing substantial effects on the environment, including the pollution levels.  The air feels so thick. Once we get back on the path the route takes us up and up, through the Apennines,  but on the train into Parma we cannot see the Alps on the northern horizon, nor the hills just a short distance to the south.

 

But first some sightseeing. Parma is lovely with some real gems and few tourists.

On the afternoon of the second day, there is a bit of rain. We didn’t see it; having a siesta. ( when in Rome ………).

After two days of rest (we still walked about 10kms each day) we hit the track again tomorrow. DC feeling a lot better.

Will see how it goes.

Fog, and haze continue all day today.  Only walked 18 kms (a bit of extra walking distance and a train ride needed to reach our accommodation in a neighbouring town).

Lots of road walking again, including some with a bit of passing traffic to and from a main arterial. (A few kms of brand new bitumen – surely they could have made it wide enough to put a separate pedestrian footpath. There was room).

Caught the train from Orio Litta to Casalpusterlengo, arriving at our B&B mid- afternoon, allowing time for a relax and hang out in the lovely garden before wandering back into town for pizza dinner. (Could i be getting sick of pizza?).

Have booked the ferry for our trip up the river Po tomorrow. Have been looking forward to this boat trip on the river, but after that I think we have both had enough of the plain. We plan to train past the last two sections on the plain and start on the hills towards the Appenines. Apparently there are lots of cows!

Stay: B&B La Borasca – beautiful place.

Ciao ciao.