20kms, on a range of country lanes, quiet roads, and paths. 6.5 hours.
11deg, clear/cloud cover.
Quite a few small ups and downs, then a descent down to the plain from the valley. Well marked; Followed the green arrows and continued to use the Alltrails app as needed.
Highlight – the ancient olive trees.
Another gorgeous day on this trail, except for one issue. But first …
Before describing today, we have noticed a marked difference in Puglia when crossing the road compared to our previous experience in Italy. One episode today exemplified that.
Firstly, most of our experience crossing the road in Italy, including if it is a designated crossing, is that the cars do not stop unless you actually step out onto the road, and they have to stop. Many weeks ago, back in Lazio, at Castel Gandolfo, we watched in amazement as a group of nuns waited at a crossing and not one car stopped for them to cross. Nuns!
Our predominant experience in Puglia is that not only do the cars stop for you at a crossing, but they stop and wave you across even if not an actual pedestrian crossing – again and again this has been our experience, in small towns and the bigger cities.
When arriving at the outskirts of Ostuni today, we had to get across the ring road – busy with traffic in both directions and no designated pedestrian crossing. We didn’t have to wait long though – when the traffic cleared in one direction, a car in the other direction stopped, with other cars behind, and waved us across.
Additionally, when out walking and we step aside on a narrow road for cars to easily pass, most drivers wave an acknowledgement; again a new experience in Italy.
Of course, there are still those that race past.
Once out of Cisternino, the trail again follows quiet county lanes. Past fields and their stone walls, old and renovated trulli, but today the hero is the olive tree – some of the oldest in Puglia.
Eventually we arrive at a section on and off a broad road, but we encounter few cars and it has a wide shoulder. Leaving this road, you start the steep downhill towards the plain, along a road until the church, then paths down through the terraces of olive trees.
Just after the church we stop for a rest and snacks, taking in the view down to the plain and the coast. We can hear the occasional gun shot from hunters echoing around the hills.
As we are about to set off again, two hunters arrive and follow the path we are about to follow. We soon separate as we take the steep descent into the fields, but we waste no time as the hunters’ shots are now closer. It takes us back to those VF north trails where encountering hunters was a new experience for us.
Once we have descended further we take a bit more time to appreciate the route through the olive trees, the flowers, thyme and sage, and other plants.
It is then that we arrive at the fields of probably the oldest olive trees we have come across – they distract us for quite a while before getting back on our way, only to again be distracted and slowed.
We don’t get a glimpse of Ostuni, the white city, until we are not far from it’s outskirts.
Across the ring road and then up and up to our accommodation for the night.
We try the tourist information centre for a stamp, but it is closed despite our arrival well before the scheduled closing time – no stamp for Ostuni. In the piazza and old town of Ostuni the decorations are up, though not to the same degree as the previous towns in the valley.
When we arrive up the hill to the cathedral, it too is closed with a DJ set up on the steps and disco hits from the 70s-80s playing – I am not the only who picks up on the opening notes of Born to be alive.
We have really enjoyed our few days walking in the Valle d’Itrea – some of our favourite days that we have managed this trip. This trail, running from Brindisi to Alberobello then onto Matera, has experienced it’s challenges. I note on the website that they are struggling to find cost-appropriate accommodation for pilgrims through the valley and therefore have chosen to focus on the stages from Martina Franca to Matera. I chose this inland route (and had hoped to complete more of it) due to its beauty, to add to the varied experience of Puglia, and at this time of year there is still an abundance of accommodation – although maybe not so much on the long weekend – compared to the closures along the coast outside of the warmer months. Should we have the opportunity to return again, we would strongly consider this route.
Stay – White room,
Eat – Arco dei Sapori
Tomorrow, the weather turns again – 8deg and rain – we will take the train to Brindisi.
Buonanotte
Richo and DC 