After a few tourist days visiting Benevento and Foggia, and taking the very scenic train trip between the two through the Apennines, we return to walking. We have only snacked on the VFS in southern Lazio and Campania, but hope we can cover most of Puglia on foot.
Part 1 – Troia to Giardinetto.
13 kms, 3.5 hours.
15deg, cloudy, a bit of mud, a few spits of rain.
Highlights – views across the plains and the Appenines.
We arrived in Troia by bus from Foggia by 9.30. The bus driver has some music on – mostly some easy listening, seventies and eighties, including with a bit of Prince in there. The opening notes of “Sweet child of mine” begin, but the bus driver is clearly not a fan – he skips through to the next song. “Where do we go now?” – that is surely the soundbite for Pellegrini.
We walked straight into the piazza with the cathedral with its magnificent facade, its Rose window, and various animal carvings that range from mischievous monkeys to a stunned dog-like creature that looks like it woke up high above the ground but is afraid of heights and wondering how it got there.
I visit the information centre in search of a stamp; the cleaner is there alone but gets on the phone, and soon I have stamps in the credentials.
Out of the town and slowly down a steep slippery road. Once we are down the hill we step straight into the mud. By the time we step onto the asphalt road we have gathered a good covering of mud and stones on our boots.
Although very different to the previous days we have managed to walk, we really appreciate the scenic nature of today’s route, with the green hills of the Apennines off to our right, the brown hills of the ploughed fields, to our left and ahead – the colours change throughout the walk as the sun pokes through at times and then disappears. And the sky adds its own drama to the day.
There are quite a few abandoned old farmhouses, some right by the pathway, a few fields of solar panels, and the wind turbines. We walk on some quiet roads, some agricultural.
We arrive at our destination for the night and settle in for lunch.
Stay and eat – Agriturismo Posta Guevara (in the guide).
When there isn’t any sightseeing to do, my evening activity to work on my Italian listening skills is watching some tv. I avoid the news, and many talk shows, focusing on some quiz shows (including Affari tuoi, the Italian equivalent of Deal or No Deal) and dubbed episodes of Little House on the Prairie (Mary has just gone blind) and Colombo (entertaining in any language).
A short day tomorrow, probably in some rain.
Stage 23, part 2 – Giardinetto to Castelluccio dei Sauri
13 deg; Wet, and windy.
Yesterday we could see the town up on the hill ahead of us. Today, everything is shrouded in cloud, though we can see just far enough to see the closest of the wind turbines on the move this morning.
We prep ourselves for a walk in the rain, but another look at the forecast has the rain increasing rather than abating.
I check with reception if the bus that goes from Foggia to Castelluccio dei Sauri passes by this hamlet – no, only by car. He offers to drive us.
11kms, in constant wind and rain, and probably mud versus a 15 minute car ride – I accept.
We spend the morning in the bar/restaurant playing cards, have lunch (delicious ragu is an appropriate choice for a day like today) then head to our accommodation for the day. He offers to come and pick us up, but it is a short walk across the small town and the rain has stopped for a little while.
No photos today.
It is amazing how much better a pack can feel when the weight is dropped just a bit as we actually wear some of the warmer clothing, plus the rain gear, and without filled water bottles.
Stay – B&B Panorama; warm and comfortable out of the howling wind and rain – recommended in the guidebook. And a stamp.
Eat – Al vecchio casale
Richo and DC 