– back on the trail
15 kms, sunny. A bit of mud … a bit of up and down … some great scenery, and Roman stuff.
5.5 hours, including chats and rests – still pretty slow, but making sure we have regular rest stops.
Highlights – Castles, and the beautiful section along the Appia
I decided to return to the trail from Fondi, stage 9. The description sounds like this is a scenic section, and a manageable distance as we re-start slowly and monitor the knee injury.
Last night, after arriving in Fondi, we manage to track down a stamp for the credential at the Chiesa di San Fransisco d’Assisi. Some advice had been that it is harder to find a stamp than on the northern trail; I need to explain the purpose of the credential and the stamp.
After breakfast, including a chat with the proprietor of the bar about her two friends who are currently holidaying in Australia, in Perth, we set off through the streets of Fondi, and past the first castle of today.
Just before leaving the outskirts of the town, there is a supermarket to grab a few items for snacks along the way.
We are a few more km’s in when we exchange greetings with an older woman walking along the road.
– Where are you from? English?
⁃ Australians.
She becomes quite excited, asking if we are from Melbourne.
As a child she arrived in Melbourne and lived there into young adulthood, including the birth of her child. We ask where, and it was the neighbouring suburb. She describes a large, beautiful park that she lived near, which is only a short walk from our home – a border between the two suburbs. A lovely chat as she reminisced about her time living just a short distance from our own home, but decades ago.
On our way again, passing various agricultural resources – citrus, and the last of the seasons eggplants, and tomatoes, then along the canal past the olive trees.
Eventually the first of the short sections on the main road – there will be three in all, not too busy, and all have a fair shoulder; the cars either move aside or slow right down; we keep an ear out and step further to the side at each passing.
Just as you reach the old via Appia section, there is a picnic ground, where we sit beside the eucalypts (!) for a longer break.
Across the bridge and along the ancient path with a gradual climb, and past the ruins of the temple of Apollo.
Another short section on the road before arriving at the cemetery then the final climb, more olives, a few glimpses across to Itri and it’s castle, some jingling goats that we can hear before we see, then the steep descent down through the woods.
The final approach into Itri has another short section along the road before you reach the footpath.
This day has been a bit of a test run of the injured knee, with a plan to again rest tomorrow, more ice, and see out the last of the heavy rain days that have swept across northern and central Italy the past week (or maybe it makes a good excuse to not be walking in the rain all day).
Rest day in Itri – although the amount of rain today has been downgraded, there is persistent rain and heavy cloud cover most of the day.
We explore the hilltop pathways, and visit the castle, taking in the views across the surrounding hills; there is just a hint in the distance of the next castle – Gaeta – barely visible today along the valley and through the clouds (at least, that is what we think we can see
Stay – Il fiore in una stanza – recommended in the guidebook, and on the way into town. Very comfortable room, and a great breakfast. Another stamp is added.
Some afternoon Canasta – DC 2, Richo 0 (total thrashings; there is something definitely awry in the Universe).
A domani
Richo and DC 