the slowest walking pace ever …
14kms; overcast to rainy.
Highlights – all things ancient Roman, and the view of the lake in Castel Gandolfo.
We knew that the first section of 26 kms was never going to be possible for us on our first day – it is a long day, wrapped up with the climb up to Castel Gandolfo.
The big challenge though is not just the distance first up, and the climb, but all the sites along the way that we know will really slow us down. We decide on a plan of walking half way, then taking the train. The following day we can then return by train and complete the first section.
Our eventual aim is Santa Maria de Leuca, 930 kms away at the tip of the heel of Italy. We are planning on smelling the roses, and know that there will be planned rest days, unplanned rest days, and that we most likely won’t walk every step of the way.
In 2017, we walked in October and November. This time we are walking in November and December; while we love walking in the cooler days and colours of autumn the weather may also impact our plans.
The cooler weather also adds to the weight and bulk of our packs. We remember how cold it was in November last time – this time packing a bit extra, including a warmer jacket. In addition, from reading other people’s comments we know that there will be mud – last time it was only our boots, but this time we have a second pair of shoes to have an option other than muddy, wet boots after arriving at our destination.
We set off from Testaccio with the church bells ringing for the holiday, All Saints day. We rejoin the route back at the Circus Maximus and make our way towards the Appia Antica, with electric-bike tour groups and other cyclists passing us by. The old road leads you out of the city, immersing you in ancient Roman ruins.
For the next couple of hours we manage a pace of only about 1.5 kms/hour. Past the catacombs, crowded today, and visiting the Villa of Maxentius, and the Capo di Bove complex.
By 1pm we know we need to pick up the pace, hoping to get to Capannelle in time for the 14:30 train to Castel Gandolfo. A drizzle has started by now, and this far along the route there are only a few walkers and cyclists. We miss that train and have almost two hours to wait for the next one. Not far away we settle into a bustling restaurant for a pasta lunch.
Finally back to the station and on our way on the 16:30 train, with views out across the low lands as the train slowly winds its way up the hill. There are glimpses of the lake but the amazing view isn’t fully realised until we exit the station.
Stay – The next two nights we book to stay at B&B Atlantis Inn, one of the recommendations in the guide. She meets us at the station in her car to drive us up to the town to avoid the climb up. This isn’t the only time that they very kindly assist us.
After our late lunch, dinner is a shared porchetta roll, and an apple, accompanied by the night-time views across the lake.
Richo and DC 