Today is all about the olive.
And Etruscan paths.
And ……..
an actual 100 kms to go.
Before leaving our B&B in the medieval quarter we get a tour of the ground floor and ancient cellars and a bit of a history lesson. It has been a lovely though brief stay in this restored medieval home and a very interesting start to the day.
We find our way back through the medieval streets and past the Popes’ Palace to head out of Viterbo. The signs seem to indicate many different directions out of town. Maybe the route has changed. We follow SloWays initially to make sure we are heading in the right direction. Once outside the walls of the town there are then two possible routes. The one on our map that follows Etruscan paths, and an “alternative” route. We want the Etruscan paths but soon realise that by following the signs from the McDonalds (the right hand road at the fork) we are being sent on the alternative route. Backtrack and take the road on the left.
The Etruscan paths have been dug out of the volcanic rock. We hypothesise different reasons they may have had for taking on such a task.
There are also a lot caves dug out along the way. Some now used for rubbish disposal. We passed a sign from, i think, an irate local that seemed to say something about throwing the bastardo in instead.
We pass the actual ‘100 kms to go’ at some point today. There is no acknowledgement of when this actually occurs. I imagine Montefiascone would object. DC does some calculations of distance and decides on a spot to mark the occasion. It isn’t a particularly fabulous spot in itself: the autostrada on one side with rubbish and tyres strewn about, an empty field on the other.
But then the olives trees. Some being pruned and the nets packed up; some having the olives shaken from their branches to be caught in the nets below; some weighed down still with olives. The rattle of the vibrating tools they use to shake the olives free echoes round the hills most of the day.
Today is only 16 kms but I am weary and slow. Breathing feels crappy, the pack won’t seem to sit right and too many bits hurt. When we arrive at our hotel we stay there till time to go in search of dinner.
Stay: Albergo da Benedetta.
Eat: Trattoria la Lanterna (this place was packed)
Pasta with salad and grilled veggies. I am really liking artichoke. Don’t think I have ever had much prior to this trip.
4 more days. About 90 kms to go.
Buonasera.
Richo and DC 