Via Francigena Oct / Nov 2017. Day 19: Berceto to Cisa Pass, then Pontremoli.

DC is a bit off again today. Has been coughing much of the night and feeling a bit heavy in the chest.

Another issue: look out the window to the south and there is a big band of dark clouds, just where we are headed.

Today is the day of the highest point for us, both in the Apennines and throughout our walk. Monte Valoria: 1,229 ms.

After heading through the streets of Berceto (852 ms) the walk is mostly through woods on jeep track. It is close to 400 ms of up but generally a gradual climb. The last bit up to the summit is particularly easy.

However, as we have been walking the clouds are darker, and the wind is cold.

If the weather is good this would be a great place to stop for a while and take in the view. At times you can see wild horses on the grasslands here.

But today, there are no horses (they have more sense than us), just a strong, cold wind and dark clouds closing in. We take a quick look around, take a couple of pics, then head on our way. As we walk across the ridge, the wind is blowing us towards the up-hill side, thankfully. Once we drop to the north side of the ridge, back into trees, it is easier. The descent towards the Cisa Pass is gradual, through woods and across grassland, but includes climbing over two stiles.

We soon arrive at Cisa Pass (1055 ms) and into the warm bar. Pellegrina olandese is there too, having arrived about 15 minutes ahead of us. She slept at a great agriturismo last night so we hadn’t seen her for a day.

Excellent lunch of panini plus blueberry cake. Ventured out to see the church and it was even colder.

The next stage from the pass involves a descent to Pontremoli, down in the valley (236 ms). 22 kms on the path or 19 kms via the road, of often steep descent. The initial plan had been to start that likely painful walk and stay somewhere part of the way down, finishing off tomorrow. But with DCs cold, and the weather, and no accommodation available until 12-13 kms down, we had changed our plan. Catch the bus! 2pm. The 10kms to Cisa Pass was enough for DC today. Save our knees some pain.

But the bus didn’t come. The staff at the bar were surprised and offered to call us a taxi. DC didn’t need asking twice.

The clouds were clearing by the time the taxi arrived and the trip down the mountain gave us some glimpses of how amazing the views would be on the walk down.

We arrived in Pontremoli with the sun out and, according to the taxi driver, 20 deg. Staying at a B&B with a room far too nice and clean for all our dirty stuff.

Still had time for some sightseeing, including the castle, excellent museum there, and wandering the narrow streets of the old town and admiring the old bridges.

Gelati, followed by excellent dinner of local specialties.

On arrival back to the B&B hanging on the door knob at the front door – my yellow and black good luck grand final beanie. I must have left it in the taxi. Thank you taxi driver. You don’t know what that means to me.

A dopo.

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